Making underwear with an OEM factory involves more than fabric and sewing. Before mass production begins, brands often incur one-time costs. These include design work, molds, machine setup, and special tools. These costs affect how easy a product is to make and how much profit a brand can keep later. Understanding these fees early helps brands avoid surprises and plan better.
Pre-Production and Technical Development
Production starts long before any fabric is cut. A design idea must be turned into clear factory instructions.
Many brands hire freelance fashion designers. The usual rate is about $60 per hour. Designing one underwear style often costs between $1,200 and $1,700.
Tech Packs and Patterns
A tech pack is a detailed guide for the factory. It shows measurements, materials, and how the product should be made.
Simple items like basic briefs usually cost $100–$300 for a tech pack
Common bras or boxers cost around $300–$600
Complex shapewear or structured garments can cost over $1,200
After that, paper patterns are turned into digital files. This often starts at $450 per style.
Making different sizes adds more cost, usually $15–$100 per size, depending on how complex the pattern is.
Injection Molds for Hardware Parts
Many underwear styles use small parts such as hooks, sliders, buckles, or underwires. These parts are made using injection molds. Making the mold costs money upfront.
Types of Injection Molds
3D printed resin molds
Cost about $100
Used only for testing and very small runs (under 100 pieces)
Aluminum molds
Cost $2,000–$5,000
Good for 1,000–5,000 units
Faster to make, but they wear out over time
Steel molds
Cost $5,000–$100,000
Used for large orders over 10,000 units
Very durable and accurate
Some molds can make many parts in one cycle. These cost more at the start but reduce the cost per piece later.
Bra Cups and Heat Molding
Bra cups for t-shirt bras or swimwear are shaped using heat and pressure. This process needs special machines and metal molds.
Cup Molds and Machines
Heat molding machines cost from $1,900 to $15,000
Each size needs its own mold
One mold set usually costs around $400
A full size range can cost $6,000 or more for one style.
Some factories also use high-frequency welding machines to attach cups without stitching. These machines usually cost $2,500–$3,500.
Seamless Underwear and Digital Setup
Seamless underwear is made on special knitting machines that form the garment in one piece. These machines are very expensive.
New machines can cost over $120,000
Used machines usually cost $10,000–$50,000
Programming Costs
There are no physical molds here. The main cost is the digital setup.
A skilled technician programs the machine. The program controls needles, tension, and shape. Getting the fit right often takes 3–5 sample rounds.
These technicians earn more than regular sewing workers. This raises the development cost for each new style.
Bonding and Ultrasonic Welding
“No-show” underwear often uses bonding instead of stitching. Fabrics are joined with heat-activated glue.
This needs special tools:
Ultrasonic machines cost $2,000–$10,000. They use vibration to melt and join fabrics.
The materials are also more expensive. Special fabrics and glue films can cost up to $8 per yard, much higher than normal sewing materials.
Custom Elastics and Trims
Waistbands are often used for branding. Logos can be woven directly into elastic bands.
Setup and Cost Factors
Logo setup fee: $150–$300
Each extra color adds about 8–12% to the cost
Wide waistbands cost 30–40% more than narrow ones
Factories usually ask for large minimum orders, often 3,000 yards or 20,000 meters, because setup takes time.
Traditional Tools and Cutting Dies
Even modern factories still use basic tools.
Cutting dies are metal shapes used to cut fabric quickly and cleanly.
Factories often cut labor by press use. The average cost is $0.22–$0.30 per press.
Managing Tooling Costs Over Time
Because tooling costs are high, brands often spread them across production.
This means adding a small extra cost to each unit until the tool is paid off. Some factories are interested in this method.
Brands should clearly agree on when this extra charge ends. Without a clear rule, the brand may keep paying even after the tool is fully covered.
Tooling costs should also be listed separately on customs papers. If they are included in the product price, brands may pay extra import taxes on every shipment.
Regional Cost Differences
Tooling costs vary by region.
East Asia offers fast turnaround and lower mold costs
Southeast Asia has lower labor costs, but often imports tools, which slows delivery
Eastern Europe and Western Asia are closer to Europe and focus on design, but often require higher order volumes
Each region has trade-offs between speed, cost, and flexibility.
Protecting Tool Ownership
Molds and digital programs belong to the brand. This must be written clearly in contracts.
Good practice includes:
Ownership transfers once payment is made
Tools marked with the brand name and ID number
The brand has the right to inspect or take back tools with notice
Clear rules help avoid disputes later.
Conclusion
Working with an underwear OEM involves many setup and tooling costs. These costs come from design work, molds, machines, and special materials.
Brands that understand these costs can plan better. Choosing the right tools for the right order size helps control spending. Clear contracts protect ownership. Separating tooling from product price can also reduce import taxes.
With careful planning, these early costs can support long-term growth and stable profits.
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